Good News!

Well its finally happened, TD Irene is officially entering our swell window, and she is just starting to increase in strength. I looked at the most recent satellite wind measurement, and it looks like there may be some 50kt winds near the center of the storm. The better news is that swell is on the way. Its already in the water and heading our direction. It should start to show itself on thursday night or friday morning. The swell should pretty much build from there. I would expect the surf to start out in the waist high range and build to chest by the weekend. but that is al contingent on the track and strength of Irene, a storm who has proven difficult to forecast.

The monkey wrench in this whole business though is that we are going to be seeing another swell mixing in with Irenes. we should see some south swell starting out tomorrow. this might be the dominant swell for the beginning part of Irene's waves. Look for this swell to be in the waist to chest range possibly. Its going to be one of those hard south swells that has the potential to totally miss us, but i think this one should make it in.



summary

Wed: More of the same, thigh to waist high background swell

Thursday: increasing southerly swell, light winds should make for some fun surf

Friday: more light winds with 2 swell trains making appearances irenes SE swell and the more local south swell should make for fun conditions

Weekend: Look for saturday to be the best day probably with lighter winds and some decent size swell waist to chest range. sunday the size should increase somewhat, but strong S/SW winds might chop things up a bit.


Long range: Irene Dominates the forecast. Look for some serious surf in the 5-7 day range if irene tracks towards us